Siena and the Palio, Friday August 12 until Wed August 17 THIS IS THE CORRECT VERSION OF
THE SIENA POST. WE ENCOUNTERED SOME TECHNICAL DIFFICULTIES WITH POSTED VERSION. SAME PICTURES. ENJOY!!
First, please know this will be a very long blog about Siena. We passed Rick Steves on the street. I am told he comes every year to one of the two the Palios, palio means the flag, a flag with a unique painting of the the Virgin for every race. I almost ran after him and said please don't publish anything about the Palio. I would love for everyone to have the opportunity to participate, but I believe they need to do it properly and to understand this isn't a 90 second horse race; this is about the life of Siena, about neighborhood pride, spiritual devotion and cutting the best deal necessary in the race for your contrada(neighborhood), it is really the culmination of life of Siena during the year and simply manifests itself during the week of the race on the holy days of July 2 and August 16. I believe if you don't have some kind of fundamental understanding of the above, you really can't understand the Palio itself since it is not simply a horse race.
Siena feels like it was a lifetime ago, but what an unbelievable experience. The Palioexperience was more than I ever imagined. Siena ( it was an Etruscan settlement, then a Roman town but really flourished as a Pilgrimage spot about half way between Florence and Rome) is a town who has been feuding with Florence for centuries. It is the city of "secrets," something they're very proud of. Cham has a book published by the University of Chicago Press entitled Siena: City of Secrets if you care to know more of the details. It is a beautiful hill town and the many hills lend itself to the secrecy of the neighborhoods. It became the money lending capital of Italy in the 1400's and even today has one of Italy's largest banks, the Monte Dei Paschi, that dates itself to 1427 and as the oldest continuously bank in the world. It has traditionally been more aligned with Rome than Florence. Legend has it their city was born from one of the descendants of Remus so the wolf statue similar to the symbol of Rome is prevalent in the area.
Their black and white marble cathedral is one of my very favorite churches anywhere. It has a beautiful exterior, but the interior is extraordinary. Busts of the popes look down upon you while you are standing on an exquiset marble floor which has been set in intricate designs. the famous art critic Vasari considered the floor the most beautiful in the world. Unfortunately, portions of the floor are covered for much of the year because the mosaics are so fragile. They told us they would remove the coverings the end of Aug through Oct, I guess their low season. Years ago we saw the mosaic of the Slaughter of the Innocents and I will never forget it. The townspeople worked on it literally for generations. I'm so sorry we've been unable to see it again. ( We asked for an audio guide when we arrived, but the woman behind the desk told us there wasn't a need because we couldn't see the floor and an organ was playing. Not quite sure why they just didn't close the kiosk but it's a job . . .) The attendant said even though they rope off the mosaics, when a contrada (neighborhood, the city is divided into seventeen of them ) wins the Palio, after the race when they come to the cathedral to consecrate the victory everyone is so excited they rush the cathedral and totally ignore any barriers. I totally understand why they cover floor, but I'm getting ahead of myself.
Cham and I first went to Siena in 2002, fourteen years ago. That's when I became aware of the horse race, the Palio, run twice a year, in July and August, and knew that was something I definitely wanted to see one day. The Palio was started in the 1500's when the surrounding areas would race to the campo, the center of the city. The August race always occurs the day after the Feast of the Assumption so it was on a Tuesday this year. The second race was founded in the 1600's and is based on a miracle. A Spanish soldier (the Holy Roman Emperor was besieging Siena) was going to shoot one of Siena's treasures, a painting of the Madonna, but his gun backfired and he was killed. As a result of this miracle the July race developed as a celebration and was just between the contradas.
Each year seven of the seventeen contradas are guarenteed to race with three others drawn at random to make the race of 10 horses. It was unusual this year because the winner of July was also chosen to race again in August. They also drew the same horse and had hired the same jockey, hmmm . . . . 100 horses are paraded and 33 of these are chosen to qualify for the race. There is a drawing to determine which horse each contrada will have. Each contrada can hire their own jockey and can switch jockeys up until 11:00 on the morning of the race. The rail position is also randomly drawn. Ideally, you want one of the first three positions. As you can imagine this process with so many variable is cause for much of the drama and suspense that surrounds the race itself
Each contrada has a name ( Eagle, Snail, Panther etc) and the neighborhoods are clearly marked by street lights and tiles with their symbol so there is no mistaking which neighborhood is which that you are in. Each contrada also has their own museum and chapel. The museums are state of the art with air conditioning and artifacts professionally displayed. They also have their own chapels which hosts baptisms, weddings and funerals. As one of our guides told us, (she's a Forest of the Rhinocerus) she has only been in two other contradas museums and chapels and that's only been because of her work as a licensed guide. She would never expect to be asked to another contrada's museum or chapel and would never invite someone to hers. I know Stan paid them for our access but we were very honored to go to the Turtle museum and chapel. They had all of the palios they had won over the years under glass, the most recent one won was in 2012. It's a great honor to paint the Palio. This particular palio was painted by the artist who makes his characters overweight, like Meriwether's restaurant used to have. We saw the silks, but also the costumes worn for the parade and the flag throwing contest. Whether you're racing or not, each contrada marches to the cathedral / duomoand then presents their flag skills to the archbishop. They do the same before the judges and race officials when they march into the Campo for the race. At the end of the year, judges will determine which contrada had the best performers and they win a prize.
Each contrada also has sworn enemies and friends. The friends' flags are flown in their churches. During the days before the Palio, everyone wears a scarf that has that contrada's mascot. By virtue of our tour package (we would not try to do the week on our own, it is way too confusing and closed to outsiders) we were assigned to the Aquilias(eagles, traditionally associated with notaries and lawyers, a fact which Cham said could not have been accidental and it is the smallest in numbers, about 900, the largest neighborhood being about 5,000) and other members of our group were assigned to the Panthers. The neighborhoods are right next door to one another and they are bitter enemies. When there is a new birth in the neighborhood, the child is baptized in their church, but they are also baptized at the contrada's fountain. You are given your scarf atthe contrada baptism and it remains with you the rest of your life. The scarfs slightly vary each year but the colors and overall design remain the same. They have a knot tied at two ends and once the knot is tied, it's never undone. I saw a beautiful silk one which was obviously very old which had been passed down to a young woman. Others had their ends chewed off because members were nervous during the race. The Aquilas were very excited about the race because they drew a horse that had won twice and hired a jockey who had won. They hadn't won the Palio since 1992 and were the favorites. Needless to say, everyone was worked into a fever pitch about the prospect of winning.
There are six trial races on the several days leading-up to the actual race to see how the horse and jockey will fit. During these two days, both horse and jockey sequestered. No one outside the contrada talks to the jockey and he is never alone. During the line up for the actual race, and it's very complicated with no starting gates and the start determined by the 10th horse that has to stay outside of the race, the jockeys can start cutting deals. There are really no rules for the race. For example the jockeys may hit each other with their crops during the race. I asked our guide if her contrada was running and she said, no, their jockey had done a bad thing. She said it was funny to watch, but he actually pulled another jockey off of his horse. As a result her contrada was been banned from the race for two years and the jockey isn't allowed to race for 10 years, which means he'll never race in Siena again. The jockeys have an undisclosed amount of money they can use to help "persuade" (read bribe) other jockeys. The panthers were determined that the aquilas weren't going to win. A panther restaurant told some members of our group not to come for dinner the night of the palio if the Aquilas won because they'd be closed because they would be so upset. There is a huge dinner the night before the race which takes place on a street in the neighborhood. We had about 950 at our contrada dinner and it lasted until 12:30. There was singing and speeches all night basically cheering for victory the next day. It was incredibly intense and very exciting. The next day, all the tables and chairs were gone. You would never have know a banquet had happened the night before.
The day of the race, the sequestered jockey and horse are led to their chapel for a priest's blessing at 2:00. In some contradas, the horse actually enters the chapel but because they steps were so uneven, the priest stood at the door and did the ceremony for our contrada, L'Aquilla. It is an extremely solemn affair, absolutely no talking when the horse is lead down the street from his stable to the chapel so to make sure he is not spooked. I asked what would happen if there was no priest from that contrada. You would have thought I asked is the Pope Catholic because it's unthinkable that each contrada wouldn't have a priest born and bred there.
Two nights before the race Cham and I just happened to be having dinner at a restaurant that straddles the neighborhoods of the Eagles and the Panthers (remember sworn enemies). The police had stationed themselves between the two contradas. Some young Aquilias had a bit too much to drink and started for the Panther neighborhood. Several Panthers met them at the dividing line at our restaurant and fortunately, some older gentlemen from both sides settled them down. There was not any violence, just all shouting but pretty intense. It was pretty funny though because the night of the dinner, one of the more hot headed Aquilas accused a Panther of disrespecting him. This man in his 80's who looked like a cross between Stringbean and Grandpa Jones on Hee Haw on two canes came out to get involved in the fray. His daughter is yelling, Pappa, Pappa and his wife is yelling, Paulo, Paulo as someone else pulled him back. I wish I could have filmed it. again, let me say we never saw any physical violence just a great deal of emotional intensity though we heard there are oftentimes fistfights between competing contradas at various times.
What a coincidence that positions 4 and 5 went to Aquilas (they were supposed to be number three on the rail ???) and Panthers. The Panthers wouldn't leave our lovely gray horse, Oppio, alone. On the second false start, I noticed our jockey was taking his time with last July's winner. I thought to myself, the deal is being cut. Sure enough, I think Oppio could have won the race, but our jockey kept the others at bay and the contradaLupa (Wolf), won again. I remembered thinking I bet the Aquilias are really upset; once again the Palio alluded them, but in retrospect I think they had received a ton of money on the side., probably in the neighborhood of $100,000. Later that night Cham went by the Aquila clubhouse area (blocked-0ff but Cham was able to peek in) and they were having a catered dinner complete with candles, nice wine and music, who knows may be a result of pay-off money for throwing the race ? The Panthers were ecstatic in the loss of Aquila. We had to walk through their neighborhood to get to our hotel. There was much rejoicing and for some reason, they put on operating room scrub hats. I never did get an explanation for that because no one seemed to know why. So, did the really Aquilia lose? As stated earlier it is ironic that the Eagles (one of only four of the contradas given royal status and the only one displaying the double eagle symbol of the Holy Roman Emperor and of the Pope, ancient rivals for control of what is now Italy) contrada is known for having the lawyers and notaries.
As the horses come to the finish line, men jump the barriers before the finish and race to meet them. I was astounded on one got hurt. They take the silks off of the jockey and tie them to the contrada's banner. The palio has been brought in on a cart drawn by 6 white oxen and hoisted on a stake above the crowd. Each contrada appoints men to unfasten the Palio and lead it to meet to the banner. You've never seen such joy, tears and general pandamonium on the course. Everyone marches to the duomo where the winner takes their banner and the palio to the altar.
I have included pictures of the Eagle, Panther and Turtle fountains. Couples do marry outside of their contradas, but during the Palio, and I'm serious, for three days they are members of their birth contrada and sometimes they move back in with their families. As you can imagine, it is a major deal when a child is born and the parents must decide of which contrada they are going to become members. At some point the August race was modified to be between the neighborhoods as well. The August race is considered the more important as it was the first and is also based on the Feast Day of the Assumption of Mary.
The Virgin Mary is very, very venerated in Siena. The Palio is a unique flag which is painted every year that includes the Virgin, the date and the 10 contradas that are racing. The contrada which wins immediately climbs up the wall where the palio has been posted, removes it and walks it around the track to meet the jockey, the horse and the other members of the neighborhood which is carrying their contrada's banner. Once the two meet they all move to the duomo where the palio is carried to the altar. As a sign of respect after the race, all of the contradas take off their scarfs and applaud the winner, although some not as heartily as others.
Cham had put the Palio event on his bucket list as well so upon retirement so that was the event we worked the rest of our schedule around. We also knew we didn't want to go with no idea of how to get tickets, where to watch the race, etc. so we bit the bullet and signed up for a package. After much research, Cham found Palio Tours and we can't say enough good things about Stan and his organization. Stan is from Miami and first visited Siena in the 90's during world cup soccer. He saw the Palio and said he thought he needed to figure out a way to be able to see the race every year so started his company. It says a lot about Stan that he was able to work his way into the contradas' hearts because they are very closed. Knowing Siena and her secrets, I'm sure we'll never completely understand what we witnessed, but it was an unforgettable experience. We met a couple from Texas who had been before and they were Panthers. The last time they were assigned to Dragons. When we come back, I'd have to be an Aqulia again because I can't imagine changing. We stayed in a lovely hotel, the Athena, which is located inside the city walls and in a great location. The hotel had a lovely terrace on the 7th floor and air conditioning in the rooms which worked! We were also very happy that our friends Kay and Lewis Morris were able to join us for a couple of days. While they weren't able to watch the race as they were headed to Florence, (though they did watch it on television from there) Lewis wrote to say what a fabulous experience but what kind race was this when someone was beating our jockey? Like they say, the city of secrets...we were exhausted mentally and physically by the end of our stay from the various emotions even we as outsiders experienced.
We're sorry for the length of the blog, but we hope in some way it has conveyed the sentiment and power of this astounding race. While the pride and devotion that the contradas show in their neighborhoods may seem archaic or outdated we can't help but admire their dedication to their heritage and wonder if America could benefit from some higher level of consciousness about and commitment to our own cultural traditions. No wonder Rick Steves comes back for it every year.
We left Siena in a rental car on Wed morning August 17 to head to an overnight visit to a mountain resort, Aquapetra, in Telese Terme, about four hours south of Siena and about half way to Lecce in the heel of Italy.
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Buongiorno, everyone:
First, please know this will be a very long blog about Siena. I am woefully behind, again, but it is a very hot day in Lecce so we've decided to take this Sunday to catch up on logistics.
Siena feels like it was a lifetime ago, but what an unbelievable experience. The Palio experience was more than I ever imagined. Siena is a town who has been feuding with Florence for centuries. It is the city of "secrets," something they're very proud of. It's a beautiful hill town, and there are many hills, which became the money lending capital of Italy in the 1400's and they currently control much of Italy's banking. It has traditionally been more aligned with Rome than Florence. Legend has it their city was born from one of the descandents of Remus so the wolf statue is prevelant in the area.
Their black and white marble cathedral is one of my very favorites. It has a beautiful exterior, but the interior is extraordinary. Busts of the popes look down upon you while you are standing on an exquiste marble floor which has been set in intricate designs. Unfortunately, portions of the floor is covered for much of the year because it's so fragile. They told us they would remove the coverings the end of Aug through Oct, I guess their low season. Years ago we saw the Slaughter of the Innocents and I will never forget it. I'm so sorry we've been unable to see it again. ( We asked for an audio guide when we arrived, but the woman behind the desk told us there wasn't a need because we couldn't see the floor and an organ was playing. Not quite sure why they just didn't close the kiosk but it's a job . . .) The attendant said even though the rope off the mosiac, when a contrada (neighborhood) wins the Palio, they're so excited they rush the cathedral and totally ignore any barriers. After the race, I totally understand why they cover floor, but I'm getting ahead of myself.
Cham and I first went to Siena about 14 years ago. That's when I became aware of a horse race, the Palio, run twice a year, in July and August, and knew that was something I definitely wanted to do someday. The Palio was started in the 1500's when the surrounding areas would race to the campo, the center of the city. The August race always occurs the day after the Feast of the Assumption so it was on a Tuesday this year. The second race was found in the 1600's and is based on a miracle. A Spanish soldier was going to shoot the Madonna in a huge church, but his gun backfired and he was killed. The July race developed as a celebration and was just between the contradas.
About the contradas, each contrada has a mascot and the neighborhoods are clearly marked by street lights and tiles so there is no mistaking which neighborhood you're in. During the days before the Palio, everyone wears a scarf that has that contradas mascot. We were assigned to the Aquilias (eagles) and other members of our group were assigned to the Panthers. The neighborhoods are right next door to one another and they are bitter enemies. When there is a new birth in the neighborhood, the child is baptized in their church, but they are also baptized at the contrada's fountain. You are given your scarf at this time and it remains with you the rest of your life. The scarfs slightly vary each year. They have a knot tied at the ends and once the knot is tied, it's never undone. I saw a beautiful silk one which was obviously very old which had been passed down to a young woman. Others had their ends chewed off because members were nervous during the race.
I have included pictures of the eagle, panther and turtle fountains. Couples do marry outside of their contradas, but during the Palio, and I'm serious, for three days they are members of their birth contrada and sometimes they move back in with their families. As you can imagine, it is major deal when a child is born and the parents must decide which contrada they are going to become members. At some point the August race was modified to be between the neighborhoods as well. The August race is considered the more important as it was the first and is also based on the Feast Day.
The Virgin Mary is very, very venerated in Siena. The Palio is a unique flag which is painted every year that includes the Virgin, the date and the 10 contradas that are racing. The contrada which wins immediately climbs up the wall where the palio has been posted, remove it and walk it around the track to meet the jockey, the horse and the other members of the neighborhood which is carrying their contrada's banner. Once the two meet they all move to the duomo where the palio is carried to the altar. As a sign of res Cham also put the event on his bucket list so upon retirement, that was the event we worked the rest of our schedule around. We also knew we didn't want to go with no idea of how to get tickets, where to watch the race so we bit the bullet and signed up for a package. After much research, Cham found Palio Tours and we can't say enough good things about Stan and his organization. Stan is from Miami and first visited Siena in the 90's during world cup soccer. He saw the Palio and said he thought he needed to figure out a way to be able to see the race every year so started his company. It says a lot about Stan that he was able to work his way into the contradas' (neighborhoods') hearts because they are very closed. We stayed in a lovely hotel, the Athena, which is located inside the city walls and in a great location. They hotel had a lovely terrace on the 7th floor and air conditioning in the rooms which worked! We had a wonderful stay and were sorry to leave.
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